Amsterdam Travel Guide Part 2: Where To Eat
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Welcome back for part two of the Amsterdam travel series!
This is my favorite part, where I get to discuss the food we ate and our favorite meal of the trip! I wrote half of this on Sunday night between bouts of stirring mushroom risotto on my stove. At a market near Noorderkerk I bought a few tubs of dried mushrooms and managed to get them through customs without border control deciding they were contraband. Naturally, writing this post felt like an appropriate time to break them out.
As most of you witnessed, I shared a lot of this information in my Instagram stories throughout the trip. The point of this post, though, is to group those recommendations here so that you can easily access them at a future date without having to revisit the Amsterdam highlight and tap through!
I talked last newsletter about how expensive a city Amsterdam is, and how we did some sandwich-packing and granola bars. Andrew and I opted to narrow down our food intake to about two meals a day (plus ice cream) to better manage our budget, and also because our days were so full that we really only stopped a couple times to rest and refuel! We hit a lot of bakeries, as our morning typically began with a long walk to the next pastry stop, and I consumed a cappuccino a day (sometimes more), usually in a new spot. I’m going to group the suggestions by categories: sweet things and coffee spots, lunches and dinners, and markets. Hopefully this will make it easier for you to zone in on a target when choosing where you’d like to visit. As always, the way we chose to travel and the places we chose to hit are not the only way to have a great trip. But if you’re curious, read on.
Traveler’s note: it has been said many times before, but bears repeating: in Amsterdam a “coffeeshop” is a place to smoke a joint or otherwise partake in some weed. Cafes are what to look for if you’re interested in actual coffee. “Café” rarely denotes a lunch counter, the way it does in the States. I know this is somewhat counterintuitive but you’ll figure it out.
Sweet Things and Coffee:
Toki , North of Jordaan- This corner café was one of our favorite stops in this category! They have a small but mighty food menu available on request. Andrew ordered soft brioche piled high with scrambled eggs, sundried tomatoes, and chili oil. I sprung for brothy beans and sourdough toast; a poached egg swam amongst fennel, leeks, wild spinach, and white beans and sustained me all morning. It was so good that I came home and tried to recreate the dish to mild success. Still, I’d far rather hit Toki again and enjoy a second cappuccino and a slice of the banana cake, which is supposed to be very good.
Rum Baba, Centraal/West - A tiny but lovely place to grab an iced latte. When we first arrived in the neighborhood of my friend’s apartment, we experienced a cinematic moment on the pavement outside as her husband exited the coffee shop, lattes in hand just as we trundled by with our suitcases. By the looks of the place, Rum Baba is also a great spot to grab a pour-over or coffee beans.
Fort Negen, Amsterdam West - The largest of the bakeries we visited, Fort Negen does a brisk business in bread, pastries, and even bread-making classes. Shannon spoke myths of a croissant filled with soft serve ice cream that they occasionally offer. Impossible!
Ulmus Bakerij, Amsterdam West - A beautiful, serene bakery in a largely residential area. We loved this one for its ample outdoor seating, handmade crockery, and large array of laminated pastries. For local friends, this is the bakery that most reminded me of Norfolk’s Chelsea Bakehouse.
Loof, Amsterdam West/Amsterdam Oud-West - My favorite bakery of our trip! Loof sells bread, pastries, really wonderful coffees, and keeps a sweet houseguest I’m not supposed to tell you about. I also appreciate the fact that it is literally across the street from a tram stop, and that they have a line of sunshine-y tables to enjoy if you happen by when they are not already occupied! We ate here before heading into Museumplein to catch our day of museums, and were lucky enough to get one of those sunshine tables!
Cafe Winkel 43, Jordaan by Noordermarkt - Winkel is known far and wide as the place in Amsterdam to try Dutch apple pie. Their ample seating both indoors and out makes it a popular spot, as does its location; especially on Saturdays when the Noordermarkt is running. Although we preferred the pie at Het Papeneiland, Winkel’s was still incredible. The slices are large and fraught with whipped cream. You would do well to share a slice with a travel buddy, or plan to have it stand in for a whole meal. Get there early - lines often queue out the door. Though if you do get stuck in a long line, there are fewer better places for people-watching.
Bookstor Cafe (Den Haag) - When we took a train to The Hague I knew that Bookstor would be on my list. It is a charming, street-side café and bookstore (as the name suggests) with many titles you are allowed to read while drinking your coffee. We had not eaten breakfast at the point we visited, so we ordered a slice each of pear and banana loaf, and fresh-squeezed orange juice to go with our coffees. The best breakfast mere steps way from the Palace. If I lived in The Hague, I could see myself spending a lot of time there.
Monte Pelmo, Jordaan - We were lucky enough to stay a short walk away from a relentlessly good and affordable ice cream shop. Monte Pelmo has been in existence since the 1950’s and if they’ve always served such wonderful ice cream, I can see why. The first night we started a pre-dinner ice cream cone tradition that lasted all week. With an orchestra of flavors from panna cotta to passionfruit meringue, on through to dairy-free roasted pistachio, and raspberry sorbetto, we needed it on repeat throughout our visit. Not to mention, a single scoop cost only around two euros, which made “just one more stop” a no-brainer. Or, in the words of Shannon, “The ice cream healed me, Ben.”
Mister NATA, De Pijp - On our one venture into the trendy De Pijp area, we happened to walk past this pastry shop offering Portuguese egg custard tarts. I have an obsession with this particular type of pastry and cannot get them in my area, so I had to drop in! I did not do any research on whether they were truly good, but we lucked out: while I’m sure the egg tarts are better in Portugal (and possibly at other bakeries nearby), these satisfied my craving! If you’re wandering around De Pijp and looking for a sweet treat other than a stroopwafel, why not stop here? We took our pastries to nearby Sarphatipark before enjoying them.
Het Papeneiland, Jordaan - Papeneiland is a classic Dutch “brown bar” which is to say: tiny, cozy, walls tiled with Delft, and lit by twinkle lights and real taper candles. On a dismally cold day I could see no better place to spend an afternoon. But even in good weather, their prime spot on the corner of two canals makes the outdoor seating situation utter perfection. Brown bars not only serve beer, but fresh mint tea, coffees, apple pie, and other fare. We ordered coffee and apple pie with cream, then basked like true lords of the earth in the sun. A lovely place.
Lunch & Dinner
Salvatorica, Jordaan - On our first night in the city, Shannon and Ben took us to Savatorica, a cozy, dime-size “pasta lab” in Jordaan. The menu changes based off the whims of the pasta-makers at work in the kitchen, so it is hand-written daily and posted beside the door before dinner service begins. They operate off a reservation system (or takeaway orders), but might accept a walk-in if you’re willing to get lost for forty-five minutes first (now is a good time to go for a cone at Monte Pelmo). The entire menu is comprised of an appetizer or two, pasta, and tirimisu. And it’s pretty much perfect. Andrew chose a pappardelle ragu, and I, a fennel and sheep’s cheese ravioli: delightful, jet-lagged dinner. The tiramisu afterward remains a dreamlike experience, both for its quality and how incredibly close to falling asleep at the table I was.
Pie-Nong Thai, near Jordaan and Amsterdam West - If you said to me that one of my favorite meals in Amsterdam would have been from a shack beside a nondescript canal and tram stop, I’m not sure I would have believed you. However, Pie-Nong Thai is a hopping spot that only locals seem to know about, which is probably why it’s so good. We chose to come here for dinner after a long day of walking and took home so much food. This restaurant is approximately the size of a walk-in closet, so every order is taken and cooked by the owner and one other person. Waits can be lengthy but the food was worth every second. The owner suggested he send out our order of spring rolls to be eaten (piping hot) while we waited for the rest of our food, and it was the perfect idea. He guided our suggestions for the other 2-3 dishes we selected (one noodle dish, one rice dish, one curry), and sent us packing with plenty for dinner, and leftovers beyond. Really delicious.
Ceppi’s, (in the streets behind Rijksmuseum) - This was another favorite meal of ours, and a total accident, really. As Andrew and I sat in the gardens to rest our feet after touring Rijksmusem, I looked up a place to have lunch. When I found Ceppi’s (Italian, pizza, canalside, close by) I put us down for a mid-afternoon reservation. It turned out to be such a great place. They make a wonderful, not-too-strong Aperol spritz and their pizzas come out with that bubbly, charred crust that a pizza-lover knows to mean a very hot oven was involved. I chose the “Nonna Gina”: a yellow tomato pizza with buffalo mozzarella, olives, anchovies, and fresh basil.
This is a place to be those people you’ve always envied while walking past a sidewalk café. The vibes are immaculate. Also, don’t skip dessert - the hazelnut ice cream profiteroles were delicious, and they make a wonderful “any coffee you’d like.”
Happy Tosti (Den Haag) - I don’t count Happy Tosti as a favorite meal on the trip. Regardless, it was a perfectly respectable sandwich in a perfectly average little lunch place near Mauritshuis and the Beninhoff. Happy Tosti is a small chain, which is maybe why I didn’t find the food exceptional. What I did love about Happy Tosti was its price point (8-11 euros as compared to the pricier options surrounding it), and the swings they offered instead of actual seats. I do recommend Happy Tosti to anyone looking for a quick stop for a bite to eat while doing the Hague museum circuit, or a family with kids who is on a budget and does not want to feel awkward about three tuna melts and a pizza panini being consumed at a messy pace. It was really lovely to know we’d have plenty of time to down a sandwich and an amble over to Mauritshuis.
Oh, that’s also a piece of news: I taught Andrew how to amble on this trip. It saved my legs.
Monsieur Rouge (Haarlem) - Another meal born of necessity! When we took the train to Haarlem to visit Teyler’s Museum, it was a very cold and windy Thursday. It turns out that Haarlem (being quite a small town) had literally nothing going on on a Thursday around noon, and very few restaurants open. We found a sandwich shop that we nearly entered till I glanced at the menu board and saw “horse sausage from wisker” and chose to take our stomachs elsewhere. I probably missed out on a delicious meal back there, and instead found ourselves (after a mile’s walk) right next door to where we started, shoving ourselves into the train-car sized Monsieur Rouge for overpriced toasts. The best part of this restaurant was, admittedly, that they accepted cards, and that they served fresh mint tea. We clung to our mugs of tea and gauged just how far of a walk the windmill was from there. Pretty forgettable meal, but happy we had some respite from the wind. The dinner menu looked much better, and I was very sad the French burger en frites was not available till 5:00.
Long Pura, close to the Anne Frank Huis - Andrew and I both agree that our Indonesian dinner at Long Pura hovers at the very height of our food experiences while in The Netherlands. I am no expert on Indonesian food (this was the first time I’d tried it) but to me it had all the brightness of Thai cuisine with all the warm, stews and braises of Filipino cuisine. It is its own type of thing entirely, but those are what it most closely related itself to in the foods I’ve experienced. I am so sad that the closest Indonesian restaurants in Virginia are way up near DC. We shared a “rice table” - many small plates of various specials - and in this way tried the max number of new things. Our favorite, hands down, was a lamb braised in coconut milk with coriander and lemongrass. While reservations are recommended, Long Pura is a large restaurant occupying two floors of a house, and our party of four were quickly seated upstairs. This would be ideal for a birthday dinner-with-friends scenario.
Febo, Amsterdam Centraal - Febo is the weirdest, most modern fast food restaurant I’ve ever been to. Workers cook food and feed it into little, warm, jail cells. Customers then step up to the jail cells and free the food they want with a wave of their credit card. I freed one that tasted similar to a McDonald’s McChicken sandwich, Andrew freed a cheeseburger, and Shannon’s vegan chicken patty was weirdly the most chicken-like of them all? Not a spot we visited for the strength of the cuisine, but definitely worth a stop for the weirdness of living in such an age. This article from Thrillist ranks the available foods according to their personal opinion.
Fromagerie Abraham Kef and Proeflokaal Kef, Amsterdam Noord - We headed into Amsterdam Noord only one evening, and that was intentionally to have a cheese tasting at Proeflokaal Kef. In this aspirational plaza, sun is warmer, pigeons are bigger, drinks are fizzier, and the cheese is sublime. You pick a pour, and the cheese monger chooses a tasting board of cheeses that best suit your chosen cup. I had a pear cider from Normandy, and the accompanying cheeses were delightful. I’ve never been a happier girl than when I learned that our favorite, Langres (a champagne-washed rind cheese from France), is occasionally sold by our local cheese shop. Shoutout to Virginia Cheese Co. in Freemason!
By the time we’d drunk our cider and nibbled the cheese, the fromagerie itself (where I planned to buy some aged gouda to take home) had closed. Shannon, being a hero, woke up early the next day and hit one of their satellite shops close to her house and brought me the required gouda. It, too, made it through customs alive. I’m now 66% De Hoeve Goud Robuust & Romig cheese because I’ve been micro-dosing gouda ever since my return. It’s a real treat.
Markets:
Lindengrachtmarkt & Noordermarkt - These markets are buddies and sort of flow together. They operate on Saturdays and Mondays, with Saturday’s market being much bigger and heavier on food vendors (produce, baked goods, mushrooms, cheese, fermented foods and pickles, food stalls, etc.), and Monday’s market being heavier on home-wares and textiles. There seemed to be a good array of vintage clothing both days. Andrew bought a denim jacket and a pair of sunglasses on Monday’s market, and I bought a backless blouse made out of a 120 year old pair of bloomers. It’s way cuter than it sounds. If you can only choose one day to go, I highly recommend Saturday. We had to rush to the airport and so only had forty-five minutes to explore its riches. I’ll be dreaming of that market for a while. So many cherries and stone fruit!
Albert Cuypmarkt, De Pijp - Open six days a week, the Albert Cuypmarkt is a huge, sprawling affair with a lot to offer. We got fresh-made stroopwafels there, and perused the many stalls of wares for sale, from produce to bolts of fabric. Be advised, De Pijp is a very popular area of Amsterdam, so if you are looking for a quieter market experience, get there early in the day, or choose another market!
As a very international city, Amsterdam has so much to offer for the adventurous among us! We went to as many places as we could in a week and there still were so many great restaurants, bakeries, and hidden spots that we never even touched. It has been a long time since I’ve gotten to delve into so many foods that are new to me! And although I shied away from “horse sausage from wisker,” we ate nearly everything else. Do any of these restaurants sound especially good to you, or is there anything I mentioned that you absolutely would not have eaten? Let me know! I find new foods so fascinating.
P.S. Andrew would like me to confirm that McDonalds in other countries is so much better than it is here, while still being very much McDonalds. He was taken with their sparkling tea. I was happy with their fries not tasting like chemicals. We had to see if the rumors were true. They were.